Tuesday, July 15, 2025

Sidi Saiyyed Mosque:“Tree of Life in Stone: Discovering India’s Most Enchanting Jali”

Ahmedabad’s Tree of Life: Art, Architecture, and Timeless Shadows

As an architect and artist, I’m drawn to places where light, material, and history converse in subtle, powerful ways. The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque, located in the heart of Ahmedabad, Gujarat, is one of India’s most iconic examples of Indo-Islamic architecture. Built in the 16th century, this heritage site is globally renowned for its intricately carved jali screens, especially the mesmerising “Tree of Life” motif.

In this post, I explore the design elements, materials, and shadow play that make this mosque not just an architectural landmark but a living artwork—and offer practical tips for your visit.

The Jali Screens: Tree of Life in Stone

The most photographed and admired feature of the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque is undoubtedly its jali work—lattice screens carved from single slabs of yellow sandstone. The intricate filigree patterns include intertwining vines, leaves, and geometric forms, culminating in the world-famous “Tree of Life” jali, now a symbol of Ahmedabad itself.

These screens are not only visually stunning but also functionally brilliant. They provide natural ventilation, soften harsh sunlight, and create privacy—all while letting light pour through in patterned beams. As an architect, I find them a masterclass in balancing form and function. As an artist, they are living canvases of light and shadow.

Architectural Inspiration: Ancient Geometry Meets Modern Ideas

Crafted during the reign of the Gujarat Sultanate, the jali patterns reflect Persian, Mughal, and local Gujarati influences. The precision and fluidity of the designs predate what we now explore through parametric architecture. In fact, architects like Zaha Hadid and Studio Gang have used similar concepts in contemporary facades that play with light and transparency.

If you’re a designer or architecture student, bring your sketchbook. Tracing these patterns by hand reveals their mathematical harmony and spiritual intent. For research, explore texts by George Michell or visit INTACH’s archives on Indo-Islamic monuments.

Materials and Craftsmanship: The Language of Sandstone

Constructed primarily from locally quarried yellow sandstone, the mosque exudes a warm, earthy elegance. Unlike the white marble grandeur of the Taj Mahal, the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque feels rooted—an expression of regional material culture.

The stone absorbs light beautifully. At sunrise, it glows golden; by dusk, it blushes with a soft pink hue. The contrast between polished surfaces and deeply carved jali filigree adds a tactile richness to the structure.

For artists and photographers, this is a dream. Try capturing it in different light conditions or explore watercolour renderings to express the mosque’s tonal subtleties.

The Poetry of Shadows: Architecture That Breathes

What makes this mosque truly extraordinary is the way light and shadow interact with its jalis. As the sun arcs across the sky, shadows shift—elongating, shrinking, reshaping. The interior becomes a canvas of ephemeral art. This poetic rhythm of changing light gives the mosque a sense of breath, of quiet movement.

While modern software like Rhino or Grasshopper can simulate such effects, the irregularities and imperfections of hand-carving give these patterns a human quality—something technology still cannot replicate fully.

Visiting the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque: Travel Guide

Location: Lal Darwaza, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India
Best Time to Visit: Early morning (7:00 AM) or late afternoon (4:00–6:00 PM) for optimal light through the jalis
Opening Hours: Daily, 7 AM to 6 PM
How to Reach: A 20-minute taxi ride from Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport; local rickshaws and Uber are available
Entry Fee: Free

What to Bring:

Camera or smartphone
Sketchbook and pen/pencil
Modest clothing (cover shoulders and knees)
Water bottle and sunhat

Nearby Attractions:

Jama Masjid Ahmedabad
Sabarmati Ashram
Manek Chowk night market
Heritage walk in the Old City

A Final Reflection: Architecture as Living Art

The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque is not just a monument—it’s a place of quiet wonder, where history, craftsmanship, and light come together in harmony. Every jali, every arch, every shifting shadow tells a story centuries old, yet ever relevant. For those of us who live between the lines of design and emotion, it’s a reminder that architecture can be meditative, poetic, and deeply human.

So whether you’re a history buff, a designer, or a curious traveller—don’t just visit. Observe. Sketch. Feel. Let the jalis whisper their secrets to you. And when you leave, you may find you’ve not only captured a photo but also rekindled your sense of awe.

Sunday, July 13, 2025

Rising in Reflection: The Architecture and Landscape of the M.G.R. & Amma Memorial | A Coastal Landmark Where Legacy Meets Design

Rising from the Sands: The Architectural and Landscape Marvel of the M.G.R. and Amma Memorial, Chennai

Looking for iconic places to visit in Chennai? One of the most meaningful and visually stunning landmarks on Marina Beach is the M.G.R. and Amma Memorial, a powerful tribute to Tamil Nadu’s legendary leaders—M.G. Ramachandran (M.G.R.) and Jayalalithaa (Amma). Spanning 8.25 acres along the Kamarajar Promenade, this memorial isn’t just a monument—it’s a masterpiece of coastal architecture and landscape design, blending symbolism, sustainability, and serenity.

As a landscape architect, I find this space deeply inspiring—a public site that respects cultural identity, encourages reflection, and creates an immersive experience through thoughtful use of architecture, greenery, water features, and light.

Architectural Design: Lotus, Phoenix & the Power of Form

The memorial’s twin shrines reflect the legacy of two towering political personalities through iconic architectural forms.

The M.G.R. Memorial, shaped like a lotus, symbolizes purity and eternal influence.
The Amma Memorial, designed by Murali Architects and completed in 2021, resembles a phoenix—a fitting metaphor for Jayalalithaa’s ability to rise and lead.

Using exposed concrete, prismatic glass, and soaring curves, the phoenix form is both sculptural and spiritual, especially under the changing light of Chennai’s coastal skies.

Adding warmth to the site is a pergola-like structure—crafted in teak-finished hardwood with brass accents—that provides shade, elegance, and a contemplative resting space. Its minimalist design allows filtered light and climbing greenery to create a living architectural moment.

Landscape Architecture: A Coastal Green Oasis in Chennai

From an urban design perspective, this memorial demonstrates climate-conscious landscape planning.

Korean grass provides a soft, resilient ground cover ideal for Chennai’s coastal conditions.
Native and exotic plants like palmyra, alpha, date palms, adenium, and spider lilies introduce diverse textures and colors.
Bougainvillea and jasmine vines wrap around the pergola, turning it into a scented garden in the heart of the complex.
Fountain grass and ornamental species create seasonal variety and support biodiversity.

This landscape is not just decorative—it’s a sustainable green infrastructure solution that cools the site naturally and enhances its emotional atmosphere.

Water Features: Serenity by Design

Water bodies are skillfully integrated across the memorial to add tranquility and symbolism:

A central fountain acts as a visual anchor.
A rear waterfall creates a soundscape that calms and refreshes.
Several small reflecting pools double as ecological features, reflecting both sky and structure.

In hot, humid Chennai, these elements play a vital role in microclimate regulation, comfort, and aesthetic delight.

Lighting Design: From Functional to Magical

The lighting scheme turns the space into an ethereal nighttime experience.

Amber pathway lamps enhance safety while maintaining ambiance.
A lit Pegasus statue and grand archway mark the entrance dramatically.
String lights on the pergola mimic starlight, offering intimacy and charm.
Inside the Amma Memorial, a roof oculus brings daylight in, while the eternal flame burns through the night as a symbolic light of legacy.

Planning and Accessibility: A Memorial for All

The site is masterfully laid out to encourage seamless visitor movement, with a linear path that connects major elements—memorials, water bodies, gardens, pergolas, and digital galleries.

Accessible ramps and inclusive features ensure that everyone, regardless of ability, can engage with the memorial.
The adjoining Amma Museum and Knowledge Centre offers digital displays, VR exhibits, and youth engagement programs, making the space educational and future-oriented.

Why the M.G.R. and Amma Memorial is a Must-Visit in Chennai

Whether you're a tourist in Chennai, a design enthusiast, or simply someone seeking peaceful places in Tamil Nadu, this memorial complex is a must-visit public space.
It’s not only a tribute to two iconic leaders—it’s a lesson in public architecture, landscape design, and inclusive planning.

References & Sources

M.G.R. and Amma Memorial—Wikipedia
Murali Architects—Jayalalithaa Memorial (Architizer)
Trawell.in - MGR Memorial
The Economic Times—Jayalalithaa Memorial Inauguration
RTF—Jayalalithaa Memorial by Murali Architects

Monday, July 7, 2025

“Hemadpanthi Temples of Maharashtra: Timeless Architecture, Sacred Stories”

Hemadpanthi Temples: Where Stone Whispers and Time Listens

Have you ever stood before a building and felt it breathe? Not metaphorically—but as if the stone itself remembers every chisel stroke, every prayer whispered inside it, and every monsoon that washed its walls?

That’s what a Hemadpanthi temple feels like.

Nestled in the rugged folds of Maharashtra’s landscape, these temples don’t scream for your attention. They don’t need to. Their silence is their story. Born during the Yadava dynasty in the 12th–13th century and named after the minister Hemadpant, these basalt beauties weren’t just built—they were forged with intention.

As an architect with an obsession for context, structure, and soul, I couldn’t resist tracing the story behind these stone marvels.

A Style That Speaks in Silence

Forget flamboyance. Hemadpanthi architecture is all about restraint, rhythm, and raw presence. A regional expression of the Vesara style, it’s the Deccan’s answer to architecture that respects the land it stands on.

Bare, but Beautiful: These aren’t canvas-carved temples like Khajuraho. Their simplicity is their sophistication.

Geometric Grit: Star-shaped plans, stepped pyramids, and square and octagonal columns—it’s geometry as poetry.

Unpolished Basalt: Left in its natural form, the dark stone blends into the plateau like a relic that grew out of the earth itself.

These temples don’t seek admiration—they command quiet reverence.

Planning: Pragmatic, Poetic, and Perfectly Aligned

Built in seismic zones with minimal materials, these temples show how smart design can also be sacred.

Compact Genius: Most have a basic layout—garbhagriha (sanctum), mandapa (pillared hall), and antarala (vestibule). Less is more.

Starry Plans: The Gondeshwar Temple in Sinnar is a masterclass in stellate planning, where form meets force distribution.

Vedic Geometry: Every axis and every entrance is aligned to cosmic rhythms. Orientation isn’t random—it’s ritual.

Structural choices were driven by logic and legacy.

Elements That Whisper Histories

Each Hemadpanthi temple is a puzzle of purpose-driven pieces:

Chunky Pillars: Squat, square, no-nonsense. They don’t decorate—they declare.

Doorways as Storyboards: Lintels bloom with divine figures, floral scrolls, and symbolic forms—a moment of ornament in a minimal space.

Amalaka and Kalasha: The sanctum’s crown—ribbed disc and pot finial—grounds the temple in cosmic symbolism.

Niches and Sculptures: Angular cutouts house exaggerated deities, like bold sketches against stone silence.

Rare Jalis: Perforated screens turn sunlight into sacred geometry.

It’s not about more. It’s about meaning.

Built from the Bones of the Earth

The Deccan didn’t offer marble. It offered basalt—dark, dense, and eternal. And what did the builders do? They turned it into poetry.

Local Basalt: Not imported, not polished. Just shaped, placed, and left to live.

Dry Masonry: No mortar. Just interlocking precision. Like building a temple out of memory and instinct.

Traces of Lime Plaster: Faint remnants hint at smoother interiors—where even shadows felt curated.

This was architecture of intention—not indulgence.

Why Hemadpanthi Still Matters

In a world that often confuses excess with excellence, these temples remind us:
Use what you have. Build what you believe. Design with depth.

They weren’t built to impress kings. They were built to endure centuries, earthquakes, and human change—and still hold space for stillness.

And when you walk through one—especially alone, with the light slanting through the mandapa—you don’t just see the past. You stand inside it.

Hemadpanthi Temple Trail: A Journey Etched in Stone

Ready to walk through history? Here's a handpicked road trail through Maharashtra to explore some of the finest Hemadpanthi temples—from mountain forts to sacred Jyotirlingas.

1. Gondeshwar Temple, Sinnar

Near Nashik | Approx. 200 km from Pune
Why Visit: A stellate-plan wonder of symmetry and strength.

Highlights: bold columns, perfect corbelling, and the quiet charisma of basalt geometry.

2. Aundha Nagnath Temple, Hingoli

Hingoli District | Approx. 370 km from Sinnar
Why Visit: An ancient Jyotirlinga wrapped in Hemadpanthi massing.
Highlights: stone elephant motifs, deep courtyards, and layered temple fabric.

3. Amruteshwar Temple, Ratangad

Near Bhandardara | Approx. 430 km from Hingoli
Why Visit: A compact gem surrounded by Sahyadri serenity.
Highlights: corbelled domes, rhythmic stone pillars, and pristine natural surroundings.

4. Yogeshwari Temple, Ambejogai

Beed District | Approx. 300 km from Ratangad
Why Visit: A temple where folk traditions meet basalt architecture.
Highlights: Varkari heritage, thick stone walls, and rural spiritual energy.

5. Tulja Bhavani Temple, Tuljapur

Osmanabad District | Approx. 150 km from Ambejogai
Why Visit: A Shakti Peeth with Hemadpanthi bones and a Maratha soul.
Highlights: fortified layout, basalt detailing, and legendary associations with Shivaji.

Return to Pune

Approx. 290 km from Tuljapur

Trail Travel Tips

Best Season: October to February
Stay: Forest lodges near Bhandardara, temple dharamshalas, and heritage guesthouses
What to Eat: Pithla-bhakri, thecha, fresh sugarcane juice
Notes: Roads near Ratangad and Hingoli can be rough—keep fuel, water, and patience on hand

Final Reflection: The Architecture of Enough

Hemadpanthi temples weren’t born out of wealth—they were born out of wisdom.
They speak of communities who knew how to build with what they had for what they believed.
Their strength isn’t in scale. It’s in silence. It’s on purpose.

Next time you sketch, design, or dream up a structure, ask:
Can it last? Does it belong here? Will it stand quietly with meaning?

If yes, perhaps a little bit of Hemadpant lives on through you.

Thursday, July 3, 2025

Where the Krishna Begins: A Hidden Temple Trail in Mahabaleshwar

A Sacred Escape to Krishnabai Temple: Where Architecture, Myth, and Silence Converge

Tucked away in the quiet hills of Old Mahabaleshwar, the Krishnabai Temple is a hidden sanctuary where mythology, history, and stone craftsmanship come together. Overlooking the lush Krishna Valley, this lesser-known site offers more than just spiritual solace—it is a quiet marvel of ancient design and natural beauty.

Reaching Krishnabai: A Path Through the Sahyadris

Getting to Krishnabai Temple is a journey filled with scenic allure. From Pune, the 127 km drive (around 3 hours) winds through the Western Ghats, while the 250 km stretch from Mumbai (about 4–5 hours) via Panvel-Mahad-Poladpur presents breathtaking landscapes. Satara, located 60 km away, is the nearest railway station for those using public transport, with onwards travel by bus or cab to Mahabaleshwar.

The temple is about 6 km from Mahabaleshwar Bus Stand and can be reached by a short forested trail beginning near the Panchganga Temple. The route, surrounded by dense trees and gentle sounds of nature, gradually reveals the temple’s stone silhouette atop a dramatic cliff edge.

Where Legends Flow: The Origin of the Krishna River

Krishnabai Temple holds immense religious and cultural significance. It is believed to be the sacred source of the Krishna River, one of India’s holiest waterways. A carved gomukh (cow-shaped spout) in the temple releases a continuous stream of water into a stone tank, signifying the river’s divine origin.

While local legends trace the site back to the time of the Mahabharata—suggesting the Pandavas may have worshipped here during their exile—historical accounts date the current structure to 1888, built under the patronage of a Ratnagiri ruler. This mix of mythology and historical heritage gives the temple an aura of timeless reverence.

Hemadpanti Architecture: Built to Endure

Constructed in the Hemadpanti style, the temple exemplifies a traditional Deccan architectural form known for its use of locally sourced black basalt and mortarless stone construction. The structure is modest yet harmonious in layout, comprising an arcaded courtyard, a central water tank, and an inner sanctum that houses a Shiva lingam and an idol of Goddess Krishna.

Minimalist stone carvings adorn the columns and beams, with floral and geometric details adding subtle elegance. The architecture’s simplicity enhances its spiritual presence, allowing the natural surroundings to take centre stage.

Positioned on a cliffside, the temple offers panoramic views of the Krishna Valley, particularly breathtaking at sunrise, when golden light bathes the basalt in warmth and shadow.

Solitude in Stone: A Temple of Reflection

What sets Krishnabai apart is its tranquil setting. Unlike the more crowded Mahabaleshwar and Panchganga temples, this site invites quiet reflection. The water tank mirrors the sky and arches, while the worn carvings speak of generations past. The temple, now protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, shows signs of ageing that only add to its character and authenticity.

The surrounding valley, visible through the temple’s arches, creates a seamless visual connection between built form and natural terrain. Especially during the monsoon, the region transforms into a lush green tapestry, enhancing the spiritual and aesthetic appeal of the site.

Before You Go: Practical Tips for Visiting

Opening Hours: 6:00 AM–8:00PM
Best Time to Visit: July to October (monsoon season for lush landscapes)
Nearby Attractions: Panchganga Temple (300 m), Mahabaleshwar Temple, Pratapgad Fort (26 km)
Accommodation Options: Regenta MPG Club, Le Meridien, and others available via HotelDekho
Photography Tip: Use a wide-angle lens to capture both architectural elements and valley vistas

Krishnabai Temple is more than a pilgrimage site—it's a serene encounter with history, mythology, and the enduring elegance of stone. A quiet gem in the Sahyadris, it awaits those who are willing to take the lesser-trodden path.

Copyright © 2025 [Ar. Pallavi Vasekar]

Tuesday, July 1, 2025

“The Elliptical Oasis: Designing Hope in the Heart of the Thar”

An Architectural Oasis in the Thar: The Sustainable Story of Rajkumari Ratnavati Girls’ School

Rising from the golden expanse of Rajasthan’s Thar Desert near Jaisalmer, the Rajkumari Ratnavati Girls’ School is more than just a space for education—it’s a beacon of empowerment, sustainability, and culturally rooted design. Conceived by Diana Kellogg Architects and commissioned by the CITTA Foundation, the school is designed to withstand a brutal climate that swings from a scorching 50°C in summer to a chilly 9°C in winter. Here, architecture becomes a quiet but powerful form of resistance—against gender inequality, environmental disregard, and the erosion of traditional knowledge.

Designing Strength: The Elliptical Form

At the core of the school is its elliptical layout, inspired by the ancient forts of Jaisalmer and the fluidity of sand dunes. For architect Diana Kellogg, the oval symbolised both continuity and feminine energy. This shape isn’t just symbolic; it aids thermal comfort by allowing winds to glide around its curved walls, minimising heat buildup.

The building revolves around a central courtyard—a traditional Rajasthani spatial element that fosters social interaction, cross-ventilation, and community. While the 48 m x 29 m courtyard currently lacks a canopy due to budget limitations, it is designed for shade play, seating, and airflow. Future iterations may introduce overhead shading to reduce solar exposure.

Built for the Desert: Sustainable Systems at Work

1. Material Wisdom: Hand-Cut Sandstone

Locally quarried yellow sandstone not only lends a golden glow to the campus but also performs thermally. Thick walls made of this stone absorb the day’s heat and radiate it at night, keeping interiors consistently cooler. Lime-plastered interiors allow the walls to breathe and assist in humidity control, echoing age-old desert construction wisdom.

2. Dual-Role Solar Panels

Solar panels line the school’s roof, doubling as shading devices and power generators. These panels ensure energy independence while reducing direct heat gain, an elegant solution in a region vulnerable to power cuts and harsh sun.

3. Ground-Cooled Comfort

Employing a geothermal cooling system, the school uses the earth’s stable underground temperatures and cool nighttime air to passively regulate indoor climates. The system mirrors traditional Rajasthani methods, where thick materials and intelligent layouts made desert living bearable without electricity.

4. Jalis: Function Meets Poetry

Traditional jalis—stone lattice screens—filter sunlight, allow ventilation, and add a layer of ornamentation. These perforated screens reduce glare and heat while creating mesmerising patterns on the floor, walls, and faces of students as the sun shifts throughout the day.

Rain in the Desert: Water Conservation

In a landscape where water scarcity is constant, the design smartly captures and stores rainwater. The courtyard is sloped to direct rain into an underground cistern with a capacity of 350,000 litres. Carefully designed channels ensure every drop is harvested and reused, contributing to the school’s sustainability mission.

Cool Comfort: Architecture as Climate Control

Thick sandstone walls, an elliptical layout, jalis, and shaded walkways work together to regulate internal temperatures. The school maintains indoor temperatures significantly lower than the outside—up to 20% cooler, by some estimates. This natural comfort is central to its success as a learning environment. Some critiques have highlighted the courtyard’s openness, especially during peak heat hours, but plans for a shading canopy remain part of future upgrades.

A Tapestry of Light and Culture

This school doesn’t just fight the desert heat—it celebrates it. With deep overhangs, carved textures, and light-and-shadow play, the school feels alive throughout the day. Light becomes part of the learning experience, shifting and dancing across sandstone surfaces, creating a calm and inspiring atmosphere.

Beyond Education: A Social Ecosystem

Situated in Kanoi village, a short drive from the Sam Sand Dunes, the school is accessible to girls from nearby villages. It currently serves 400 students from kindergarten through tenth grade. The donated land, quiet desert surroundings, and plans for a women’s cooperative and textile museum under the Gyaan Centre make it a cultural and economic hub—supporting not just students, but entire communities.

Craft and Care: Material Choices Every element of the school speaks to local identity. Yellow sandstone, Jodhpur stone transoms, lime plaster, and charpai-inspired wooden benches made by local artisans create a tactile, authentic space. Led by master craftsman Kareem Khan, the construction process honoured and preserved traditional building methods.

Challenges and Opportunities

Despite its success, the school faces ongoing challenges. Monsoon flooding has impacted parts of the structure, and solar shading in the courtyard remains a future goal. These hurdles underline the importance of adaptive design, especially in the context of climate unpredictability. Yet, the school continues to evolve, reflecting architect Kellogg’s belief in architecture as a “process of seeking”.

A Desert Dream, Realised

The Rajkumari Ratnavati Girls’ School is not just a piece of architecture—it’s a story etched in stone, sand, and sunlight. It’s where education meets empowerment, where traditional craft meets innovation, and where the future is being shaped in the hands of young girls under the shade of sustainability.

This elliptical fortress doesn’t just survive the desert—it thrives in it. From geothermal cooling and hand-carved jalis to rainwater harvesting and solar power, every design choice whispers a promise: that thoughtful architecture can transform communities, restore dignity, and rewrite futures.

As the sun sets over the golden dunes, the sandstone walls come alive with shadows and laughter. And in this quiet corner of Rajasthan, change is being built—one stone, one student, one story at a time.

🌾 Want to explore more architectural stories that blend design, culture, and sustainability?
Read more at Ink and Itinerary—where spaces speak.

#RajkumariRatnavatiSchool #SustainableArchitecture #WomenInArchitecture #DianaKellogg #TharDesertDesign #EducationInRajasthan #CulturalArchitecture #VernacularArchitecture #JaisalmerStone #PassiveCooling #EmpowerThroughDesign #DesignForChange #GirlsEducationIndia #InkAndItinerary

Copyright © 2025 [Ar. Pallavi Vasekar]

Monday, June 30, 2025

"Where Architecture Walks with the Divine: Nandyal’s Temple of Steps"

Balaji Temple, Nandyal: A Pilgrimage Through Architecture, Landscape, and Ritual

Tucked into the landscape of Andhra Pradesh’s Nallamala Hills, the Balaji Temple in Nandyal offers more than a spiritual destination—it’s a profound journey through space, design, and the Indian countryside. As an architect who often travels to understand the deeper layers of built environments, this temple visit unfolded like a living design lesson. Not just in structure, but in how one arrives, moves, and experiences the space.

Designed by Mumbai-based architectural firm Sameep Padora & Associates, the Balaji Temple—also referred to as the Temple of Steps—is a powerful example of contemporary architecture rooted in regional context, traditional symbolism, and ecological awareness.

The Sacred District of Nandyal

Nandyal has long been known as a spiritual centre, nicknamed the “Sacred District” due to its nine historic temples dedicated to Nandi. Yet among these ancient sites, this newer temple stands out—not by replacing the old, but by offering a dialogue between past and present. Its design feels at once ancient and immediate, modern and deeply rooted in the land.

Getting There: The Pilgrim’s Journey

Reaching the temple is part of the experience. The closest major airport is Hyderabad’s Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, around 300 km away. From there, a 5–6 hour drive winds through fields, plateaus, and small villages. The route offers a gradual shift from urban bustle to rural rhythm—a physical and mental preparation for the spiritual space ahead.

If you prefer the train, Nandyal is connected by passenger rail from Hyderabad and regional cities like Kurnool. Though slower than air or road travel, the rail journey passes through the scenic Nallamala range and is perfect for those who enjoy unhurried landscapes. Once in Nandyal, local autos and taxis can take you the final 5 km to the temple’s site in Bilakalaguduru village.

A Temple Designed to Be Walked

From the very first step into the temple precinct, movement becomes ritual. Instead of ascending toward a towering sanctum, you descend into it—through a series of wide black limestone steps that echo the ghats of Varanasi and the sacred tanks of Tirupati. This stepped approach isn’t just symbolic; it is meditative. Walking becomes part of the experience, not just a way to get from one point to another.

These steps surround a large reservoir or kund, a water body created by repurposing runoff from an abandoned quarry nearby. It is both functional and spiritual—used for ritual bathing, groundwater recharge, and reflection. The kund becomes your first interaction with the temple, a space where the sky meets stone and still water mirrors your presence.

Layout That Guides, Not Confines

The temple complex includes shrines for both Lord Venkateswara (Balaji) and Varahaswamy, along with necessary facilities like a kitchen, restrooms, and priest quarters. The spatial planning is direct and open—visitors are not controlled by barriers or signs but gently led by sightlines, slopes, and the natural flow of the space. Even during crowded festivals like Brahmotsavam, movement remains fluid.

A Material Expression of Place

The black limestone used throughout the temple is sourced locally, grounding the structure in its geographical and cultural context. It absorbs heat and anchors the form into the land. The temple doesn’t shout for attention. It rises subtly, almost as if it were always there, shaped not by hand but by the landscape itself.

Though monumental in form, the temple feels intimate. Its scale is human, welcoming rather than overwhelming. There is no ornamentation for its own sake—every element, from the slope of a stair to the coolness of the stone, serves the visitor’s experience.

More Than a Destination: A Designed Journey

What makes this temple truly remarkable is how the act of getting there—by train, by road, or even on foot—is considered part of the design. The architecture doesn’t just begin at the entrance; it begins miles before, in the slowing down of travel, the quietening of noise, and the gentle anticipation that builds as you approach.

This isn’t merely a site to be photographed or a box to tick off on a travel list. It is a living space, shaped by intention and care. One where architecture, landscape, and ritual coexist without conflict.

Travel Tips for Your Visit

The best time to visit is between October and March, when the weather is pleasant. If you're interested in cultural events, the Brahmotsava festival, usually held in September or October, offers a lively, immersive atmosphere. Accommodation options range from simple lodges in Nandyal to more comfortable hotels in nearby Kurnool, such as Hotel Haritha.

Dress modestly, as is customary in most Hindu temples, and be prepared to remove your footwear before entering the shrines.

Final Reflections

Nandyal’s Balaji Temple is a rare place where architecture becomes experience. It invites you to slow down, to walk, to reflect—not just within the temple, but on your way to it. Designed with reverence for nature, ritual, and community, it shows how contemporary design can elevate ancient practice without overshadowing it.

Whether you’re an architect, a traveller, or a seeker, this temple is more than a destination. It is a story told through stone, water, and movement—a reminder that sometimes, the most meaningful pilgrimages are those where the journey and the place are inseparable.

Friday, June 27, 2025

Amdavad ni Gufa: Where Art, Architecture, and Earth Collide

Amdavad ni Gufa: Where Architecture Paints and Art Builds

Step into the quiet heat of Ahmedabad, and tucked within the bustling CEPT University campus lies an entrance—not to a building, but to another world. It’s easy to miss these unassuming white domes peeking from the ground like shells left behind by ancient creatures.

But follow the curve of the earth, descend into the Amdavad ni Gufa, and you’ll find yourself in a space where art and architecture are not separate disciplines—but one continuous act of creation.

This isn’t just a gallery. It’s a vision. A rebellion. A modern myth written in stone and paint.

Art Meets Architecture: A Sacred Collaboration

Amdavad ni Gufa is the result of a rare creative dialogue between two Indian legends: Balkrishna Vithaldas Doshi, a pioneer of modern Indian architecture, and M.F. Husain, one of India’s most celebrated artists.

They didn’t set out to make a museum. They dreamed of making a “living cave”—a shelter for ideas, a shrine to creativity, a space beyond time.

Doshi, with his roots in Le Corbusier’s brutalism and India’s vernacular wisdom, imagined an underground space that would stay naturally cool under Ahmedabad’s blazing sun.
Husain, ever the visual poet, envisioned his art wrapping around walls like early cave paintings—fluid, bold, and raw.

What emerged was not a traditional gallery but a womb-like labyrinth, deeply introspective and alive.

A Language of Forms: No Corners, No Constraints

Inside the Gufa, there are no straight lines. No right angles. No conventional corridors or exhibition rooms. Instead, you encounter curved, interlocking domes, organic chambers, and crooked columns that lean like ancient trees.

The layout wasn’t drafted with precision drawings or CAD files. It evolved on-site—through models, gestures, and instincts. This freedom from formal constraints allowed the architecture to feel spontaneous, even emotional.

The Gufa is built partially underground—not for effect, but for climatic intelligence. The earth insulates it, making it cool, quiet, and meditative.
The roof appears above ground as a cluster of tiled domes, reminiscent of turtle shells or termite mounds—forms that speak to survival, shelter, and the primordial.

It’s a space that feels older than it is, even though it was built in the 1990s.

Material Alchemy: From Scrap to Spirit

What truly sets Amdavad ni Gufa apart is its honest use of materials—nothing polished or pretentious, yet deeply poetic.

1. Ferrocement Magic

The Gufa is constructed using ferrocement, a material made of wire mesh, rods, and cement mortar. This lightweight, pliable medium allowed Doshi to mold the space like clay—forming domes, curves, and vaults without heavy beams or columns.

It’s cost-effective, environmentally considerate, and structurally daring.
The flexibility of ferrocement enabled the space to feel sculpted rather than assembled.

2. Mosaic Domes with a Mythic Touch

The domes are clad with recycled ceramic tiles and broken crockery—white shards that shimmer under the sun. These don’t just reflect heat—they radiate story.

A black serpent motif, hand-painted by Husain, slithers across the surface—invoking Sheshnag, the cosmic snake from Hindu mythology.
The act of using waste to create something sublime speaks to the Gufa’s deeper philosophy: transformation, reinvention, and storytelling through matter.

3. Built by Hand, Shaped by Spirit

Doshi insisted that the Gufa be built not by industrial contractors but by local tribal laborers using hand tools. This wasn’t an aesthetic choice—it was an ethical and creative one.

The irregularities, asymmetries, and imperfections give the structure its character.
The craft is visible—in every curve, in every shadow, and in every mosaic.

This isn’t architecture as performance. It’s architecture as craft, care, and cultural continuity.

Inside the Gufa: An Immersive Encounter

Stepping inside, your senses recalibrate. The temperature drops. The noise fades. And the light—oh, the light—pierces through circular skylights like cosmic spotlights, moving through the day and animating the space with gentle drama.

Tree-like Columns

Inside, tilted and irregular columns rise like trees, organically supporting the roof. Some lean, some twist. Painted by Husain in bold primary colors, they are both structural and sculptural.

They blur the line between architecture and artwork—between form and imagination.

Painted Walls, Painted Air

Husain didn’t just hang his work—he painted the walls, ceilings, and even air conditioners. His modernist strokes echo cave art but feel contemporary, even futuristic. Human figures. Horses. Deities. Animals. Sometimes abstract. Always alive.

He also placed plywood cutouts and metal sculptures among the columns, creating movement and visual rhythm.
The architecture provides not a backdrop but a canvas for these stories.

Symbolism in Stone

For Doshi, the Gufa is a garbhagriha—a sacred inner chamber where thoughts gestate and visions take shape. For Husain, it’s a modern-day cave—an ode to the origins of art, when creativity wasn’t confined by canvas or frame.

The snake motif on the dome, inspired by a dream Doshi had of Vishnu’s Kurma (tortoise) avatar, roots the Gufa in Indian mythology—without ever being literal or didactic.

Every element here means something. Every texture whispers a story.

Why You Should Visit

Amdavad ni Gufa isn’t flashy. It doesn’t offer picture-perfect symmetry or grandeur. But if you listen closely, it offers silence, shade, and soul.

For tourists, it’s a hidden gem that feels like discovering a secret cave.
For artists, it’s a space where creativity drips from the ceiling.
For architects, it’s a lesson in climate-responsive, low-tech, high-impact design—bold in form, humble in method.

You’ll find it next to Zen Café on the CEPT University campus. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 4:00 to 8:00 p.m. Closed on Mondays and holidays.

Not flawless – but that’s the point.

The Gufa shows signs of wear—humidity, cracks, and patches. Some might call it unkempt. But that’s part of its truth. Like a cave, it’s meant to age, to adapt, and to breathe.

It’s not meant to be preserved under glass—it’s meant to live.

Final Reflections: A Space That Thinks

Amdavad ni Gufa isn’t just a place. It’s a philosophy—a space that rejects conventional categories, that celebrates collaboration, and that proves design doesn’t need luxury to be legendary.

In an age obsessed with perfection, the Gufa reminds us that imperfection has spirit. That materials have memory. And that the future of architecture may very well be hidden beneath our feet, waiting to be unearthed—not with machines, but with hands, myths, and imagination.

Written by Pallavi
Architect. Artist. Seeker of soulful spaces.
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