Friday, July 18, 2025

Ever Wondered What the World’s Most Beautiful Library Looks Like?



The Architectural Grandeur of the Library of Congress

Copyright © 2025 Ar. Pallavi Vasekar



Rabindranath Tagore

(from The Gardener and Stray Birds)

“The book that you hold in your hands is the living voice of a distant soul,
It speaks not in words alone, but in silence that your heart understands.”


As an architect and avid library visitor, I’m endlessly fascinated by spaces where design and knowledge converge—and few places embody this better than the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C. Housed in the iconic Thomas Jefferson Building, this Beaux-Arts masterpiece is a testament to architectural brilliance, thoughtful planning, and the vibrant human spirit of its veteran volunteers who guide visitors with infectious enthusiasm.

Having explored libraries worldwide—from the simple yet soulful Auroville Library in India to grand institutions like this one—I found the Library of Congress to be a breathtaking celebration of intellect and artistry. Let’s dive into its architectural elements, materials, planning, and the unique charm of its volunteer guides.


Architectural Elements and Materials

Stepping into the Great Hall of the Thomas Jefferson Building is like entering a cathedral of knowledge. Completed in 1897, the building’s exterior, clad in granite and marble, radiates permanence, while its copper-sheathed dome—now oxidised to a verdant patina—crowns the structure with elegance.

Inside, the 75-foot ceiling of the Great Hall soars above, adorned with intricate frescoes and murals by artists like Elihu Vedder, depicting allegories of wisdom and creativity. I was particularly captivated by the eagle carvings crafted from polished wood and bronze—symbolising strength and vigilance—and the delicate iron and brass metalwork in the railings and chandeliers, which adds a refined contrast to the heavier stone elements.

The materials are a sensory delight. Rare Italian and Algerian marble swirls across columns and staircases, their veins resembling the pages of an ancient manuscript. The oak and mahogany bookcases, carved with classical motifs like scrolls and laurel leaves, are not just functional but sculptural—elevating the act of reading to an art form. The Main Reading Room, with its 160-foot dome and stained-glass skylights, bathes the space in a warm, ethereal glow, making it a haven for readers like me who seek both knowledge and beauty.

Planning and Design

The Library of Congress—originally designed by the firm Smithmeyer and Pelz and later completed under architect Edward Pearce Casey and engineer Bernard R. Green—is a triumph of planning that balances spectacle with function. Born from a national design competition, the building’s layout radiates outward from the Main Reading Room, a grand hub that connects to specialised reading rooms, alcoves, and offices.

The inclusion of quiet courtyards and an innovative book conveyor system—revolutionary in its time—reflects a forward-thinking approach to accessibility and user experience. As an architect, I admire how the space evokes awe without compromising its role as a high-functioning repository for millions of volumes. Skylights and clerestory windows filter natural light into the interiors, reinforcing the harmony between function and serenity.


The Heart of the Experience: Veteran Volunteers

What truly brought the Library of Congress to life were its veteran volunteers, part of the “By the People” program. These knowledgeable guides—many of whom have served in military or civil service—infuse the tour with warmth, wit, and a storyteller’s touch.

During my visit, I met Margaret, a spirited veteran who enthusiastically pointed out small but rich architectural details: rosettes in the cornices, symbolic keystones over arches, and the alignment of zodiac motifs on the ceiling. Her insights transformed what could’ve been a quiet walkthrough into a deeply human journey through history. These volunteers don’t just share facts—

They connect you to the soul of the space, reminding us that libraries aren’t just about books; they’re about people and stories.


A Monument to Knowledge

The Library of Congress is more than a building—it is a celebration of human intellect and imagination. Every carving, column, and mural whispers a story, and every skylight brightens the pursuit of knowledge. Its opulent materials and meticulous design create a space that inspires awe, while the compassionate presence of its veteran volunteers adds a beating heart to its architectural shell.

As an architect and lifelong reader, I left the Library of Congress feeling renewed—reminded that great design doesn’t just house information; it elevates the human spirit.




Rabindranath Tagore

(from Fireflies)

“The past is not dead. It lives in books,
in marble words carved,
and in hearts that still listen.”



References and Further Reading     



Thursday, July 17, 2025

“Tiébélé’s Painted Houses: Africa’s Most Beautiful Mud Architecture”

Tiébélé’s Painted Houses: A Living Canvas of Culture and Craft

I first heard the name Tiébélé from my elder brother during a casual conversation about vernacular architecture in Africa. He mentioned Burkina Faso—a name that itself felt remote and intriguing. Curious, I looked it up and stumbled upon something that completely captivated me: the painted houses of Tiébélé. What began as a random mention soon unfolded into a fascinating exploration of architecture that’s not only sustainable but also

deeply rooted in storytelling, community, and identity. As an architect, this discovery felt like finding a hidden chapter in the world’s design history—one that deserves to be seen and celebrated.

Nestled in southern Burkina Faso near the Ghanaian border, Tiébélé is a small village covering just 1.2 hectares. It is home to the Kassena people, one of the oldest ethnic groups in West Africa. Since the 15th century, the Kassena have been building and painting their homes in a tradition that seamlessly blends utility with art. Their dwellings are not only structurally clever and environmentally responsive but also transformed into vivid murals—each telling a story of culture, spirituality, and survival.

👉 Watch: The City of Clay | Habitats of the World: Burkina Faso (2024) – A cinematic short documentary exploring earth-based design in the Sahel.


A Canvas of Clay: Materials Rooted in Earth

The architecture of Tiébélé is grounded in the clever use of local, natural materials. Homes are constructed from a mix of clay, straw, cow dung, and wood—each component carefully selected for its strength and thermal performance. The clay-straw-dung mixture creates a durable mortar shaped into thick walls, later sometimes molded into adobe bricks. These walls offer natural insulation, keeping interiors cool in the arid Sahelian heat and warm during chilly nights.

Flat roofs, crafted from wooden beams covered with mud and laterite, are sealed with a natural varnish made from the néré fruit. This layer not only protects against rain but is also reapplied every five years as part of a collective ritual. Even furniture—beds, shelves, and seating—is sculpted from clay, demonstrating the Kassena’s ingenuity and complete immersion in earth-based design.

👉 Watch: Tiébélé Painted House—Traditional Mud Houses of Burkina Faso (2017)— A close-up video tour showing the earthen construction and hand-sculpted detailing.



Patterns That Speak: The Visual Language of Kassena Women

What truly sets Tiébélé apart is its breathtaking wall art, painted by the women of the Kassena community. These aren’t simply decorative flourishes—they are visual narratives. Using earth-derived pigments like red laterite, white kaolin, and black graphite, the women create bold geometric patterns and symbolic motifs. Each symbol carries meaning: red represents courage, white purity, and black the spirit world. Animal motifs like snakes and crocodiles are believed to offer protection, while celestial designs represent guidance and hope.

This artwork is not a solo endeavor. It’s a communal ritual, often held after the harvest season. Women gather with handmade brushes—crafted from guinea fowl feathers or stones—to smooth walls, apply a pigmented base, paint with precision, and finally polish the surface with stones and seal it with varnish. It’s a celebration of creativity and kinship that revitalizes not only the structures but also the social fabric of the village.

👉 Watch: Discovering the Royal Court of Tiébélé (2023)—Focuses on the Cour Royale, the heart of the village’s artistic and cultural expression.



Built to Withstand: Defense and Climate Response

Beyond their beauty, Tiébélé’s homes are strategically designed for protection—both from the elements and intruders. The compounds are enclosed by walls and arranged in tightly knit clusters. Entryways are intentionally small and low, requiring visitors to crouch—a subtle yet effective form of defense. The lack of windows minimizes heat and adds a layer of security. Walls up to a foot thick moderate indoor temperatures and reflect centuries of climate wisdom.

The layout follows fractal patterns, revealing a deep understanding of spatial organization and social structure. The Cour Royale de Tiébélé—the chief’s compound—is especially intricate, featuring the most elaborate motifs and architectural details. Even rooftops serve multifunctional roles, often doubling as drying platforms for grains.






A Living Tradition Amidst Modern Pressures 

Tiébélé is more than just a picturesque village—it is a living, breathing archive of the Kassena way of life. Every hand-mixed layer of plaster, every brushstroke, and every communal gathering tells a story. Yet, this rich tradition faces threats from climate change, erosion, and the pressures of tourism. While tourism offers economic opportunities, the Kassena community remains cautious, often requiring extensive dialogue before granting access—underscoring their commitment to cultural preservation.

Though Burkina Faso proposed Tiébélé for UNESCO World Heritage status in 2012, the site is still awaiting official recognition. As architects, urban designers, and cultural custodians, we must advocate for such legacies that show how design can be a force for identity, sustainability, and connection.






Designing with Tiébélé’s Spirit in Mind

The spirit of Tiébélé can inform contemporary design in powerful ways. Designers like Dokter and Misses have already reinterpreted Kassena motifs in modern ceramics and accessories. Imagine what we could do by integrating similar design philosophies—local materials, community participation, and storytelling facades—into housing, cultural centers, or schools.

Tiébélé reminds us that buildings can be more than shelter. They can be alive, echoing with the voices of ancestors and the hands of their creators. If ever you find yourself tracing the dusty trails of Burkina Faso, make a stop in Tiébélé. It’s not just a village; it’s a living museum, a masterpiece etched in clay and spirit.


#Tiébélé #VernacularArchitecture #CulturalPreservation #AfricanDesign #ArchitecturalInspiration

Copyright © 2025  [Ar. Pallavi Vasekar]






Tuesday, July 15, 2025

Sidi Saiyyed Mosque:“Tree of Life in Stone: Discovering India’s Most Enchanting Jali”


Ahmedabad’s Tree of Life: Art, Architecture, and Timeless Shadows

As an architect and artist, I’m drawn to places where light, material, and history converse in subtle, powerful ways. The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque, located in the heart of Ahmedabad, Gujarat, is one of India’s most iconic examples of Indo-Islamic architecture. Built in the 16th century, this heritage site is globally renowned for its intricately carved jali screens, especially the mesmerising “Tree of Life” motif.

In this post, I explore the design elements, materials, and shadow play that make this mosque not just an architectural landmark but a living artwork—and offer practical tips for your visit.



The Jali Screens: Tree of Life in Stone

The most photographed and admired feature of the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque is undoubtedly its jali work—lattice screens carved from single slabs of yellow sandstone. The intricate filigree patterns include intertwining vines, leaves, and geometric forms, culminating in the world-famous “Tree of Life” jali, now a symbol of Ahmedabad itself.

These screens are not only visually stunning but also functionally brilliant. They provide natural ventilation, soften harsh sunlight, and create privacy—all while letting light pour through in patterned beams. As an architect, I find them a masterclass in balancing form and function. As an artist, they are living canvases of light and shadow.



Architectural Inspiration: Ancient Geometry Meets Modern Ideas

Crafted during the reign of the Gujarat Sultanate, the jali patterns reflect Persian, Mughal, and local Gujarati influences. The precision and fluidity of the designs predate what we now explore through parametric architecture. In fact, architects like Zaha Hadid and Studio Gang have used similar concepts in contemporary facades that play with light and transparency.

If you’re a designer or architecture student, bring your sketchbook. Tracing these patterns by hand reveals their mathematical harmony and spiritual intent. For research, explore texts by George Michell or visit INTACH’s archives on Indo-Islamic monuments.




Materials and Craftsmanship: The Language of Sandstone

Constructed primarily from locally quarried yellow sandstone, the mosque exudes a warm, earthy elegance. Unlike the white marble grandeur of the Taj Mahal, the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque feels rooted—an expression of regional material culture.

The stone absorbs light beautifully. At sunrise, it glows golden; by dusk, it blushes with a soft pink hue. The contrast between polished surfaces and deeply carved jali filigree adds a tactile richness to the structure.

For artists and photographers, this is a dream. Try capturing it in different light conditions or explore watercolour renderings to express the mosque’s tonal subtleties.




The Poetry of Shadows: Architecture That Breathes

What makes this mosque truly extraordinary is the way light and shadow interact with its jalis. As the sun arcs across the sky, shadows shift—elongating, shrinking, reshaping. The interior becomes a canvas of ephemeral art. This poetic rhythm of changing light gives the mosque a sense of breath, of quiet movement.

While modern software like Rhino or Grasshopper can simulate such effects, the irregularities and imperfections of hand-carving give these patterns a human quality—something technology still cannot replicate fully.


Visiting the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque: Travel Guide

Location: Lal Darwaza, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India
Best Time to Visit: Early morning (7:00 AM) or late afternoon (4:00–6:00 PM) for optimal light through the jalis
Opening Hours: Daily, 7 AM to 6 PM
How to Reach: A 20-minute taxi ride from Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport; local rickshaws and Uber are available
Entry Fee: Free

What to Bring:

  • Camera or smartphone

  • Sketchbook and pen/pencil

  • Modest clothing (cover shoulders and knees)

  • Water bottle and sunhat

Nearby Attractions:

  • Jama Masjid Ahmedabad

  • Sabarmati Ashram

  • Manek Chowk night market

  • Heritage walk in the Old City


A Final Reflection: Architecture as Living Art

The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque is not just a monument—it’s a place of quiet wonder, where history, craftsmanship, and light come together in harmony. Every jali, every arch, every shifting shadow tells a story centuries old, yet ever relevant. For those of us who live between the lines of design and emotion, it’s a reminder that architecture can be meditative, poetic, and deeply human.

So whether you’re a history buff, a designer, or a curious traveller—don’t just visit. Observe. Sketch. Feel. Let the jalis whisper their secrets to you. And when you leave, you may find you’ve not only captured a photo but also rekindled your sense of awe.


Tags 

#SidiSaiyyedMosque #IndoIslamicArchitecture #TreeOfLifeJali #AhmedabadHeritage #ArchitecturalTravel #MosqueArchitectureIndia #JaliDesign #CulturalArchitecture #IndianMonuments #StoneCraftIndia

Copyright © 2025  [Ar. Pallavi Vasekar]

Sunday, July 13, 2025

Rising in Reflection: The Architecture and Landscape of the M.G.R. & Amma Memorial | A Coastal Landmark Where Legacy Meets Design

Rising from the Sands: The Architectural and Landscape Marvel of the M.G.R. and Amma Memorial, Chennai

Looking for iconic places to visit in Chennai? One of the most meaningful and visually stunning landmarks on Marina Beach is the M.G.R. and Amma Memorial, a powerful tribute to Tamil Nadu’s legendary leaders—M.G. Ramachandran (M.G.R.) and Jayalalithaa (Amma). Spanning 8.25 acres along the Kamarajar Promenade, this memorial isn’t just a monument—it’s a masterpiece of coastal architecture and landscape design, blending symbolism, sustainability, and serenity.

As a landscape architect, I find this space deeply inspiring—a public site that respects cultural identity, encourages reflection, and creates an immersive experience through thoughtful use of architecture, greenery, water features, and light.


Architectural Design: Lotus, Phoenix & the Power of Form

The memorial’s twin shrines reflect the legacy of two towering political personalities through iconic architectural forms.

  • The M.G.R. Memorial, shaped like a lotus, symbolizes purity and eternal influence.

  • The Amma Memorial, designed by Murali Architects and completed in 2021, resembles a phoenix—a fitting metaphor for Jayalalithaa’s ability to rise and lead.

Using exposed concrete, prismatic glass, and soaring curves, the phoenix form is both sculptural and spiritual, especially under the changing light of Chennai’s coastal skies.

Adding warmth to the site is a pergola-like structure—crafted in teak-finished hardwood with brass accents—that provides shade, elegance, and a contemplative resting space. Its minimalist design allows filtered light and climbing greenery to create a living architectural moment.



Landscape Architecture: A Coastal Green Oasis in Chennai

From an urban design perspective, this memorial demonstrates climate-conscious landscape planning.

  • Korean grass provides a soft, resilient ground cover ideal for Chennai’s coastal conditions.

  • Native and exotic plants like palmyra, alpha, date palms, adenium, and spider lilies introduce diverse textures and colors.

  • Bougainvillea and jasmine vines wrap around the pergola, turning it into a scented garden in the heart of the complex.

  • Fountain grass and ornamental species create seasonal variety and support biodiversity.

This landscape is not just decorative—it’s a sustainable green infrastructure solution that cools the site naturally and enhances its emotional atmosphere.


Water Features: Serenity by Design

Water bodies are skillfully integrated across the memorial to add tranquility and symbolism:

  • A central fountain acts as a visual anchor.

  • A rear waterfall creates a soundscape that calms and refreshes.

  • Several small reflecting pools double as ecological features, reflecting both sky and structure.

In hot, humid Chennai, these elements play a vital role in microclimate regulation, comfort, and aesthetic delight.


Lighting Design: From Functional to Magical

The lighting scheme turns the space into an ethereal nighttime experience.

  • Amber pathway lamps enhance safety while maintaining ambiance.

  • A lit Pegasus statue and grand archway mark the entrance dramatically.

  • String lights on the pergola mimic starlight, offering intimacy and charm.

  • Inside the Amma Memorial, a roof oculus brings daylight in, while the eternal flame burns through the night as a symbolic light of legacy.


Planning and Accessibility: A Memorial for All

The site is masterfully laid out to encourage seamless visitor movement, with a linear path that connects major elements—memorials, water bodies, gardens, pergolas, and digital galleries.

  • Accessible ramps and inclusive features ensure that everyone, regardless of ability, can engage with the memorial.

  • The adjoining Amma Museum and Knowledge Centre offers digital displays, VR exhibits, and youth engagement programs, making the space educational and future-oriented.


Why the M.G.R. and Amma Memorial is a Must-Visit in Chennai

Whether you're a tourist in Chennai, a design enthusiast, or simply someone seeking peaceful places in Tamil Nadu, this memorial complex is a must-visit public space.
It’s not only a tribute to two iconic leaders—it’s a lesson in public architecture, landscape design, and inclusive planning.

References & Sources

  • M.G.R. and Amma Memorial—Wikipedia

  • Murali Architects—Jayalalithaa Memorial (Architizer)

  • Trawell.in - MGR Memorial

  • The Economic Times—Jayalalithaa Memorial Inauguration

  • RTF—Jayalalithaa Memorial by Murali Architects

Copyright © 2025  [Ar. Pallavi Vasekar]


Monday, July 7, 2025

“Hemadpanthi Temples of Maharashtra: Timeless Architecture, Sacred Stories”

Hemadpanthi Temples: Where Stone Whispers and Time Listens

Have you ever stood before a building and felt it breathe? Not metaphorically—but as if the stone itself remembers every chisel stroke, every prayer whispered inside it, and every monsoon that washed its walls?

That’s what a Hemadpanthi temple feels like.

Nestled in the rugged folds of Maharashtra’s landscape, these temples don’t scream for your attention. They don’t need to. Their silence is their story. Born during the Yadava dynasty in the 12th–13th century and named after the minister Hemadpant, these basalt beauties weren’t just built—they were forged with intention.

As an architect with an obsession for context, structure, and soul, I couldn’t resist tracing the story behind these stone marvels.



A Style That Speaks in Silence

Forget flamboyance. Hemadpanthi architecture is all about restraint, rhythm, and raw presence. A regional expression of the Vesara style, it’s the Deccan’s answer to architecture that respects the land it stands on.

Bare, but Beautiful: These aren’t canvas-carved temples like Khajuraho. Their simplicity is their sophistication.

Geometric Grit: Star-shaped plans, stepped pyramids, and square and octagonal columns—it’s geometry as poetry.

Unpolished Basalt: Left in its natural form, the dark stone blends into the plateau like a relic that grew out of the earth itself.

These temples don’t seek admiration—they command quiet reverence.


Planning: Pragmatic, Poetic, and Perfectly Aligned

Built in seismic zones with minimal materials, these temples show how smart design can also be sacred.

Compact Genius: Most have a basic layout—garbhagriha (sanctum), mandapa (pillared hall), and antarala (vestibule). Less is more.

Starry Plans: The Gondeshwar Temple in Sinnar is a masterclass in stellate planning, where form meets force distribution.

Vedic Geometry: Every axis and every entrance is aligned to cosmic rhythms. Orientation isn’t random—it’s ritual.

Structural choices were driven by logic and legacy.


Elements That Whisper Histories

Each Hemadpanthi temple is a puzzle of purpose-driven pieces:

Chunky Pillars: Squat, square, no-nonsense. They don’t decorate—they declare.

Doorways as Storyboards: Lintels bloom with divine figures, floral scrolls, and symbolic forms—a moment of ornament in a minimal space.

Amalaka and Kalasha: The sanctum’s crown—ribbed disc and pot finial—grounds the temple in cosmic symbolism.

Niches and Sculptures: Angular cutouts house exaggerated deities, like bold sketches against stone silence.

Rare Jalis: Perforated screens turn sunlight into sacred geometry.

It’s not about more. It’s about meaning.


Built from the Bones of the Earth

The Deccan didn’t offer marble. It offered basalt—dark, dense, and eternal. And what did the builders do? They turned it into poetry.

Local Basalt: Not imported, not polished. Just shaped, placed, and left to live.

Dry Masonry: No mortar. Just interlocking precision. Like building a temple out of memory and instinct.

Traces of Lime Plaster: Faint remnants hint at smoother interiors—where even shadows felt curated.

This was architecture of intention—not indulgence.


Why Hemadpanthi Still Matters

In a world that often confuses excess with excellence, these temples remind us:
Use what you have. Build what you believe. Design with depth.

They weren’t built to impress kings. They were built to endure centuries, earthquakes, and human change—and still hold space for stillness.

And when you walk through one—especially alone, with the light slanting through the mandapa—you don’t just see the past. You stand inside it.


Hemadpanthi Temple Trail: A Journey Etched in Stone

Ready to walk through history? Here's a handpicked road trail through Maharashtra to explore some of the finest Hemadpanthi temples—from mountain forts to sacred Jyotirlingas.




1. Gondeshwar Temple, Sinnar

Near Nashik | Approx. 200 km from Pune  
Why Visit: A stellate-plan wonder of symmetry and strength.


Highlights: bold columns, perfect corbelling, and the quiet charisma of basalt geometry.





2. Aundha Nagnath Temple, Hingoli

Hingoli District | Approx. 370 km from Sinnar
Why Visit: An ancient Jyotirlinga wrapped in Hemadpanthi massing.
Highlights: stone elephant motifs, deep courtyards, and layered temple fabric.






3. Amruteshwar Temple, Ratangad  

Near Bhandardara | Approx. 430 km from Hingoli
Why Visit: A compact gem surrounded by Sahyadri serenity.
Highlights: corbelled domes, rhythmic stone pillars, and pristine natural surroundings.






4. Yogeshwari Temple, Ambejogai

Beed District | Approx. 300 km from Ratangad
Why Visit: A temple where folk traditions meet basalt architecture.
Highlights: Varkari heritage, thick stone walls, and rural spiritual energy.






5. Tulja Bhavani Temple, Tuljapur

Osmanabad District | Approx. 150 km from Ambejogai
Why Visit: A Shakti Peeth with Hemadpanthi bones and a Maratha soul.
Highlights: fortified layout, basalt detailing, and legendary associations with Shivaji.


Return to Pune

Approx. 290 km from Tuljapur


Trail Travel Tips

Best Season: October to February
Stay: Forest lodges near Bhandardara, temple dharamshalas, and heritage guesthouses
What to Eat: Pithla-bhakri, thecha, fresh sugarcane juice
Notes: Roads near Ratangad and Hingoli can be rough—keep fuel, water, and patience on hand


Further Reading and Research

Deccan Architecture by George Michell
Archaeological Survey of India reports on Yadava-era temples
Regional folk archives from Nanded, Beed, and Hingoli
Field studies and photo essays via university heritage cells


Final Reflection: The Architecture of Enough

Hemadpanthi temples weren’t born out of wealth—they were born out of wisdom.
They speak of communities who knew how to build with what they had for what they believed.
Their strength isn’t in scale. It’s in silence. It’s on purpose.

Next time you sketch, design, or dream up a structure, ask:
Can it last? Does it belong here? Will it stand quietly with meaning?

If yes, perhaps a little bit of Hemadpant lives on through you.

Copyright © 2025 [Ar. Pallavi Vasekar] 

Thursday, July 3, 2025

Where the Krishna Begins: A Hidden Temple Trail in Mahabaleshwar



A Sacred Escape to Krishnabai Temple: Where Architecture, Myth, and Silence Converge

Tucked away in the quiet hills of Old Mahabaleshwar, the Krishnabai Temple is a hidden sanctuary where mythology, history, and stone craftsmanship come together. Overlooking the lush Krishna Valley, this lesser-known site offers more than just spiritual solace—it is a quiet marvel of ancient design and natural beauty.

Reaching Krishnabai: A Path Through the Sahyadris

Getting to Krishnabai Temple is a journey filled with scenic allure. From Pune, the 127 km drive (around 3 hours) winds through the Western Ghats, while the 250 km stretch from Mumbai (about 4–5 hours) via Panvel-Mahad-Poladpur presents breathtaking landscapes. Satara, located 60 km away, is the nearest railway station for those using public transport, with onwards travel by bus or cab to Mahabaleshwar.

The temple is about 6 km from Mahabaleshwar Bus Stand and can be reached by a short forested trail beginning near the Panchganga Temple. The route, surrounded by dense trees and gentle sounds of nature, gradually reveals the temple’s stone silhouette atop a dramatic cliff edge.


Where Legends Flow: The Origin of the Krishna River

Krishnabai Temple holds immense religious and cultural significance. It is believed to be the sacred source of the Krishna River, one of India’s holiest waterways. A carved gomukh (cow-shaped spout) in the temple releases a continuous stream of water into a stone tank, signifying the river’s divine origin.

While local legends trace the site back to the time of the Mahabharata—suggesting the Pandavas may have worshipped here during their exile—historical accounts date the current structure to 1888, built under the patronage of a Ratnagiri ruler. This mix of mythology and historical heritage gives the temple an aura of timeless reverence.


Hemadpanti Architecture: Built to Endure

Constructed in the Hemadpanti style, the temple exemplifies a traditional Deccan architectural form known for its use of locally sourced black basalt and mortarless stone construction. The structure is modest yet harmonious in layout, comprising an arcaded courtyard, a central water tank, and an inner sanctum that houses a Shiva lingam and an idol of Goddess Krishna.

Minimalist stone carvings adorn the columns and beams, with floral and geometric details adding subtle elegance. The architecture’s simplicity enhances its spiritual presence, allowing the natural surroundings to take centre stage.

Positioned on a cliffside, the temple offers panoramic views of the Krishna Valley, particularly breathtaking at sunrise, when golden light bathes the basalt in warmth and shadow.

Solitude in Stone: A Temple of Reflection

What sets Krishnabai apart is its tranquil setting. Unlike the more crowded Mahabaleshwar and Panchganga temples, this site invites quiet reflection. The water tank mirrors the sky and arches, while the worn carvings speak of generations past. The temple, now protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, shows signs of ageing that only add to its character and authenticity.

The surrounding valley, visible through the temple’s arches, creates a seamless visual connection between built form and natural terrain. Especially during the monsoon, the region transforms into a lush green tapestry, enhancing the spiritual and aesthetic appeal of the site.


Before You Go: Practical Tips for Visiting

  • Opening Hours: 6:00 AM–8:00PM

  • Best Time to Visit: July to October (monsoon season for lush landscapes)

  • Nearby Attractions: Panchganga Temple (300 m), Mahabaleshwar Temple, Pratapgad Fort (26 km)

  • Accommodation Options: Regenta MPG Club, Le Meridien, and others available via HotelDekho

  • Photography Tip: Use a wide-angle lens to capture both architectural elements and valley vistas


Krishnabai Temple is more than a pilgrimage site—it's a serene encounter with history, mythology, and the enduring elegance of stone. A quiet gem in the Sahyadris, it awaits those who are willing to take the lesser-trodden path.


  • Copyright © 2025 [Ar. Pallavi Vasekar] 



Tuesday, July 1, 2025

“The Elliptical Oasis: Designing Hope in the Heart of the Thar”

An Architectural Oasis in the Thar: The Sustainable Story of Rajkumari Ratnavati Girls’ School

Rising from the golden expanse of Rajasthan’s Thar Desert near Jaisalmer, the Rajkumari Ratnavati Girls’ School is more than just a space for education—it’s a beacon of empowerment, sustainability, and culturally rooted design. Conceived by Diana Kellogg Architects and commissioned by the CITTA Foundation, the school is designed to withstand a brutal climate that swings from a scorching 50°C in summer to a chilly 9°C in winter. Here, architecture becomes a quiet but powerful form of resistance—against gender inequality, environmental disregard, and the erosion of traditional knowledge.


Designing Strength: The Elliptical Form

At the core of the school is its elliptical layout, inspired by the ancient forts of Jaisalmer and the fluidity of sand dunes. For architect Diana Kellogg, the oval symbolised both continuity and feminine energy. This shape isn’t just symbolic; it aids thermal comfort by allowing winds to glide around its curved walls, minimising heat buildup.

The building revolves around a central courtyard—a traditional Rajasthani spatial element that fosters social interaction, cross-ventilation, and community. While the 48 m x 29 m courtyard currently lacks a canopy due to budget limitations, it is designed for shade play, seating, and airflow. Future iterations may introduce overhead shading to reduce solar exposure.


Built for the Desert: Sustainable Systems at Work

1. Material Wisdom: Hand-Cut Sandstone

Locally quarried yellow sandstone not only lends a golden glow to the campus but also performs thermally. Thick walls made of this stone absorb the day’s heat and radiate it at night, keeping interiors consistently cooler. Lime-plastered interiors allow the walls to breathe and assist in humidity control, echoing age-old desert construction wisdom.

2. Dual-Role Solar Panels

Solar panels line the school’s roof, doubling as shading devices and power generators. These panels ensure energy independence while reducing direct heat gain, an elegant solution in a region vulnerable to power cuts and harsh sun.

3. Ground-Cooled Comfort

Employing a geothermal cooling system, the school uses the earth’s stable underground temperatures and cool nighttime air to passively regulate indoor climates. The system mirrors traditional Rajasthani methods, where thick materials and intelligent layouts made desert living bearable without electricity.

4. Jalis: Function Meets Poetry

Traditional jalis—stone lattice screens—filter sunlight, allow ventilation, and add a layer of ornamentation. These perforated screens reduce glare and heat while creating mesmerising patterns on the floor, walls, and faces of students as the sun shifts throughout the day.


Rain in the Desert: Water Conservation

In a landscape where water scarcity is constant, the design smartly captures and stores rainwater. The courtyard is sloped to direct rain into an underground cistern with a capacity of 350,000 litres. Carefully designed channels ensure every drop is harvested and reused, contributing to the school’s sustainability mission.


Cool Comfort: Architecture as Climate Control

Thick sandstone walls, an elliptical layout, jalis, and shaded walkways work together to regulate internal temperatures. The school maintains indoor temperatures significantly lower than the outside—up to 20% cooler, by some estimates. This natural comfort is central to its success as a learning environment. Some critiques have highlighted the courtyard’s openness, especially during peak heat hours, but plans for a shading canopy remain part of future upgrades.


A Tapestry of Light and Culture

This school doesn’t just fight the desert heat—it celebrates it. With deep overhangs, carved textures, and light-and-shadow play, the school feels alive throughout the day. Light becomes part of the learning experience, shifting and dancing across sandstone surfaces, creating a calm and inspiring atmosphere.


Beyond Education: A Social Ecosystem

Situated in Kanoi village, a short drive from the Sam Sand Dunes, the school is accessible to girls from nearby villages. It currently serves 400 students from kindergarten through tenth grade. The donated land, quiet desert surroundings, and plans for a women’s cooperative and textile museum under the Gyaan Centre make it a cultural and economic hub—supporting not just students, but entire communities.


Craft and Care: Material Choices Every element of the school speaks to local identity. Yellow sandstone, Jodhpur stone transoms, lime plaster, and charpai-inspired wooden benches made by local artisans create a tactile, authentic space. Led by master craftsman Kareem Khan, the construction process honoured and preserved traditional building methods.


Challenges and Opportunities

Despite its success, the school faces ongoing challenges. Monsoon flooding has impacted parts of the structure, and solar shading in the courtyard remains a future goal. These hurdles underline the importance of adaptive design, especially in the context of climate unpredictability. Yet, the school continues to evolve, reflecting architect Kellogg’s belief in architecture as a “process of seeking”.


A Desert Dream, Realised

The Rajkumari Ratnavati Girls’ School is not just a piece of architecture—it’s a story etched in stone, sand, and sunlight. It’s where education meets empowerment, where traditional craft meets innovation, and where the future is being shaped in the hands of young girls under the shade of sustainability.

This elliptical fortress doesn’t just survive the desert—it thrives in it. From geothermal cooling and hand-carved jalis to rainwater harvesting and solar power, every design choice whispers a promise: that thoughtful architecture can transform communities, restore dignity, and rewrite futures.

As the sun sets over the golden dunes, the sandstone walls come alive with shadows and laughter. And in this quiet corner of Rajasthan, change is being built—one stone, one student, one story at a time.


🌾 Want to explore more architectural stories that blend design, culture, and sustainability?
Read more at Ink and Itinerary—where spaces speak.


#RajkumariRatnavatiSchool #SustainableArchitecture #WomenInArchitecture #DianaKellogg #TharDesertDesign #EducationInRajasthan #CulturalArchitecture #VernacularArchitecture #JaisalmerStone #PassiveCooling #EmpowerThroughDesign #DesignForChange #GirlsEducationIndia #InkAndItinerary

  • Copyright © 2025 [Ar. Pallavi Vasekar] 

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